The
Beauty of Estate Jewelry or . . .
What is The Difference Between Estate, Antique or Period
Jewelry?
Estate Jewelry in its most basic definition is simply
any jewelry of previous ownership. Estate Jewelry may
be old (which is the normal thought) or it may be modern
but has, since its purchase, been re-circulated. Estate
Jewelry may have been the property of someone no longer
living, or it may have been yours that you just sold.The
general rule for personal property to be 'antique' is
one hundred years of age. There are exceptions to this
rule. A good example is the jewelry accessory of cigarette
cases from the 1920’s as they were made for smaller
cigarettes. This function is obsolete now as cigarettes
are not of that size. So, since the function is no longer
utilized, the cigarette cases are antique. Period Jewelry
usually refers to periods of particular style. It's name
is usually word associated with something of that particular
era. In jewelry, those periods are:
Georgian (1714-1830)
Notes: Georgian Jewelry was handmade.
Gemstones: Diamonds are beginning to take on new form
such as rose cut, cushion and 'brilliants', white-imperial-pink
topazes, chartreuse chrysoberyl, coral, ivory, garnets,
lava, paste, pearls, shell, onyx, carnelian, etc.
Metals: Gold with high karat content, berlin iron, pinchbeck,
etc.
Other: Lots of bezels, foil backed stones, low flat gold
work, cobalt blue, black and white enameling, etc.
Styles: Large jewelry. Bracelets, index finger rings,
girandole earrings, memorabilia jewelry, crosses, hair
combs, buckles, aigrettes, tiaras, etc.
Influences: Greek and Roman architecture, the excavation
of Pompei, Rococo.
Designs: Cameos, intaglios, mosaics, etc. Acorns, the
Greek key, Urns, Doves, Phoenix, Wheat, plumages, etc.
Victorian
(1837-1901)
Notes: This period began and ended with Queen Victoria,
and is generally characterized into three eras of time:
Early Victorian (1837-1860) Mid-Victorian (1861-1880)
Late Victorian Era (1881-1901)
Gemstones: Overall larger stones. Persian Turquoise, Emeralds,
Garnets, Pearls, Chrysoberyls and Pearls, etc.
Metals: Colored golds, etc.
Other: Backs open up, foliate engravings and scrollwork,
champleve and painted enamels, etc.
Styles: Bracelets worn in multiples, drops from chains,
long pendant earrings, etc.
Influences: Botanical, Gothetic figural and architectural
motifs.
Designs: Shells, scrolls, buckles, tassels, knots, animals,
plants, insects, gargoyles, etc.
Arts
& Crafts (1890-1914)
Notes: This was the time when artisans and craftspeople
moved to withstand the new influence of mechanization.
Gemstones: Cabochon semi-precious gemstones, Opals, Amber,
Pearls, Moonstone, etc.
Metals: Predominately silver, etc.
Other: Lots of bezels, etc.
Styles: Brooches, Swag necklaces, pendants, etc.
Influences: Greek and Roman architecture, the excavation
of Pompei, Rococo.
Designs: Hammered finishes, Natural abstracts such as
birds, figures, foliates, etc.
Art
Nouveau (1895-1915)
Notes: This was the romantic, graceful era.
Gemstones: Cabachon semi-precious accented by precious,
etc.
Metals: Yellow gold, silver, platinum touches, etc.
Other: Strong emphasis on plique a jour enameling, etc.
Styles: Hair combs, brooches, pendants, etc.
Influences: Oriental, impressionism, etc.
Designs: Botanical, animal and human forms, beasts, flowing
lines, etc.
Edwardian
(1901-1914)
Notes: This was the elegant time prior to WWI.
Gemstones: Extra faceting on diamonds, garnets, Ceylon
sapphires, etc.
Metals: Platinum and platinum over gold, etc.
Other: Guilloche enameling, mille grain setting, lace
work, etc.
Styles: Tiaras, sautoirs, lace work pendants, lorgnette,
pendant watches, hat pins,stickpins, etc.
Influences: Faberge, French ornamentation, etc.
Designs: Garland style, lace work, trellis patterns, etc.
Art
Deco (1920-1935)
Notes: This is the style of jewelry that was the strongest
between the two world wars.
Gemstones: Diamonds usually accented with gemstones of
strong colors, the beginning of strong emphasis of synthetic
corundums (ruby & sapphire), etc.
Metals: Platinum and white gold, etc.
Other: Filigree work, mille grain, page, channel with
enameled borders, etc.
Styles: Clip/brooches, sautoirs, wrist watches, straight
line bracelets, jabot pins, etc.
Influences: Cubism, Egyptian, Oriental, etc.
Designs: Geometric shapes to floral, etc.
Retro
(1935-1955)
Notes: Larger jewelry reminiscent on previous styles.
Gemstones: Larger multicolor precious and semi-precious
stones, calibrated, etc.
Metals: Yellow and multicolor gold, etc.
Other: Invisible, channel, prong set, etc.
Styles: Large cuff bracelets, brooches, clip earrings,
charm bracelets, etc.
Influences: Cubism, Abstract expressionism, etc.
Designs: Curved, geometric, floral, drapery, etc.
Markets
There are two basic markets in the retail jewelry trade:
The primary market is new merchandise: from the
dealer to the consumer.
The secondary market is the buying and selling
of previously owned jewelry: from the consumer to the
dealer or another consumer.