Every
major colored stone should be properly graded for the
4-C's' . . .
Color, Cut or Clarity and Carat Weight
The order of value is unfortunately never totally agreed
on by those that grade a colored stone (including the
Gemological Institute of America and its own trade laboratory
the Gem Trade Laboratory). However, it is the opinion
of Mackley & Company the order should be as presented
for determining the maximum value of a colored stone.
We will proceed to give nomenclatures for the color, cut
and clarity of a colored stone followed by a definition
of carat weight. Any credit for the following should primarily
go to the GIA and the AGL for the developing of ones'
thought process in nomenclature. Imagine a grader using
one set of criteria and another a completely different
standard. (This actually goes on today.) This is not to
say that all of the following was developed by the GIA,
but it is to say the thought process for the grading of
a colored stone is accepted as the standard and probably
came prior to the GIA's introduction of their standard.
Probably the American Gemological Laboratory (AGL) brought
about most of the development of colored stone standards.
Mackley & Company refers to the following as a subjective
scientific or educational conjecture method.
Color Colored
gemstones are graded with the use of words or a system.
Words are like: A slightly light yellowish Green. A System
can be either GemDialogue (Rubin), eWizard (Stuller).
ColorScan (AGL-discontinued), ColorMaster (Gem Instruments
division of the GIA-discontinued), and the prescribed
methods of the GIA, AGL, AGA, ASA, or a combination thereof
at the discretion of the gemologist. Each method should
be referenced.
The AGL color nomenclature for tone is from colorless
to black (0-100) and its color rating is from excellent
to poor (1-10). In essence, there is no standard other
than a word system. The GIA color nomenclature has just
changed their system. The GemDialogue system of composed
of a modifier-hue with a tone and then possibly with a
colormask. The ColorScan is a hue and tone noted with
a number. Examples of both systems are available in the
office of Mackley & Company, Inc. Mackley & Company
will utilize the word system along with GemDialogue for
most situations.
Clarity Clarity is usually the second most important factor when
evaluating colored stones. Clarity should be checked first
with the unaided eye and then under 10X with darkfield
illumination. The primary clarity systems used are the
AGL and the GIA. The AGL and GIA (with the three types)
systems are listed as follows:
AGL GIAType Iusuallycleanish GIAType IIusuallyincluded
GIAType IIIhighlyincluded DESCRIPTION
FL VVS Minute to not detectable
LI1-2 VS VVS Minor
MI1 SI1 VS VVS NOTICEABLE to obvious
MI2 SI2 SI1 VS Noticeable to OBVIOUS
HI1 SI2 SI1 OBVIOUS to prominent
SI2 Obvious to PROMINENT
HI2 I1 I1 Prominent (moderate affect on appearance or
durability)
I1 Prominent (considerable affect on appearance of durability)
EI1 I2 I2 Prominent (severe affect on appearance or durability)
I2 Prominent (severe affect on transparency or durability)
EI2 I3 I3 I3 Prominent (severe affect on beauty, transparency
and durability)
EI3 Déclassé Déclassé Déclassé
Stones not transparent because of inclusions.
Cut The
cut can affect the color grade of a colored stone either
positively or negatively and can have a greater affect
on the overall grade. Designer cut colored stones can
add a premium to the overall value. The GIA cut grading
system is a detailed system that grades the proportions
and finishes of colored stones and relates it to a final
grade of 1 to 10. The following proportions and finish
guidelines should be considered when evaluating the cut
of colored stones.
10 9 . . . . . . . . 8 7 . . . . . 6 5 . . .4 3 . . .2
1
Excellent . . Very Good . . Good . . Fair . . Poor
PROPORTIONS - Outline balance, length to width ratio,
profile balance, total depth percentage, crown height
and pavilion depth, bulge, table size, brilliance, extinction
and windowing.
FINISH - Polish, symmetry, and facet survey.
Some colored stones need special consideration regarding
cut. Fancy cuts not normally used for colored stones may
command a higher value. Shapes not normally cut due to
the nature of the rough may also command higher values.
Carat Weight Simply, two tenths of a gram is a carat. Each carat is
made up of 100 equal parts called points.
The other two characteristics of Buying Gemstones are Cost (everyone has a budget) and Confidence.(you are not going to purchase unless you feel good about it, are you?).